Monday, July 13, 2009

Djibouti CIty

Measuring just one-sixth the size of England, Djibouti is one of Africa's tiniest countries. Dwarfed by giants - Ethiopia to the south and west and Somalia to the south-east, the country is little more than a port. But its position at the southern entrance to the Red Sea gives the country an importance wholly disproportionate to its size. Nearly three million barrels of oil pass by this place every day.

Djibouti's climate is classed as "semi-arid tropical" - in other words torrid - and temperatures are recorded as the hottest in the world. The year can be divided into two seasons: hot and dry, and cool and humid. Since I've been here, the temperatures have averaged around 113 degrees. Today it was 118.

Djibouti City is the capital of a small, predominately Muslim republic of 750,000 that won its independence from France in 1977. At first sight, Djibouti City looks little more than an overpopulated, ramshackle and filthy village that seems to be on the verge of collapse. However, with a little exploration, the city reveals an interesting character with many vestiges of its unusual past. Djibouti continues to act as a crossroads where African, Arab, Indian, and European influences all converge.

From its beginning, Djibouti City was an artificial creation. In many ways, it still is. The city is the sedentary capital of a nomadic people, an African city designed like a European town, a seedy port in an Islamic country, and a kind of French Hong Kong in the Red Sea. With the dawning of the 21st century, the country is struggling to find a new identity; whatever happens it will be based, as always, around the port.

Djibouti City owes its rapid growth to its superb strategic location. Its large, natural harbour at the entrance to the Red Sea provided protection from the ferocious winds and the city represented the shortest and simpliest route from Ethiopia. Today, the port and the railway form the mainstay of the economy, contributing nearly three-quarters of the country's GDP.

The City's centre can be divided into two quarters: the European Quarter, laid out on a grid system to the north, and the African Quarter, which spills to the south. Place Menelik marks the heart of the European Quarter and is lined with French cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. South of Place Menelik lies Place Rimbaud. Here the European Quarter ends and the African Quarters begins. Many Djiboutians consider Place Rimbaud the real soul of the city. On and around the square some of the local markets are found.

Northwest of town, a causeway leads past the presidential palace to a small marina, which is the point of departure for trips to the islands. Further north is the city's port proper, access which is restricted. Northeast of town, is where many of the foreign embassies and residences, including the U.S. Embassy, can be found as well as the European beaches. In the far north, is where the country's rich and famous keep their lavish villas.

For the most part, my business keeps me on the northeast side of town where the French and Djiboutian hospitals are located - as well as the U.S. Embassy. Today, I was given a quick tour after lunch of the southwest part of the city, past the shabby homes of the somali refugees to the coastline, dotted with brown trees and bushes as well as roaming camels and herds of goats. After a few pictures of the camels, we headed back to Camp Lemonier.

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